Food and sport have a symbiotic relationship. We love to combine vittles with victories. The marriage of a hot dog and a ballgame let no man tear asunder.
But what happens when food becomes part of the action? Perhaps you’ve seen the Milwaukee Brewers’ sausage races? And some exceptional athletes (?) can earn a living thanks to their hot-dog-chomping prowess.
The preparation of food can stimulate competition, too. Such events have come to prominence in recent years through TV shows like Iron Chef, but Texas has long offered its own brand of food fight : the chili cook-off.
The Fort Worth Weekly held such an event this past Sunday featuring local restaurants’ top food makers. The inaugural Celebrity Chef Chili Cook-Off filled the parking lot outside Dagwoods Fire Grill Tap with merrymakers who had bought tickets for the privilege of tasting, voting on, and, in certain cases, recovering from a substantial variety of chilis. They experienced music from KNON artists, beer from Deep Ellum Brewing Company and Karbach Brewing Company, and lots of what contestant Felip Armenta of The Tavern, Pacific Table, and Press Cafe called “American comfort food.” So it was a lot of fun. But how much of a competition was it?
“I told my team, ‘Look, I really want to try to win this thing’,” said Armenta. “I think everybody took it pretty serious.”
For some, playing sports against friends is highly competitive. Bragging rights matter. These men and women weren’t strangers to each other, explained Juan Rodriguez of Magdalena’s.
“It’s all the chefs that I know. We’re all like brothers. It’s almost a friendly competition. We all try to talk smack to each other, but’s it’s all in fun.”
Some of the spicier chilis may have exuded intensity, but the competition, in truth, did not. All the chefs echoed Rodriguez’s theme – this was in fun.
“It’s not always about the competition,” said Keith Hicks of Buttons. “I’m the type of cat that likes to do things out of love. If we win, that’s fine. If we don’t, we still fed a lot of people.”
Whether motivated by affection or prestige, the preparers put a lot of effort into their concoctions. They used multiple meats, spices, and some creative elements Billy Woodrich of Billy’s Oak Acres BBQ termed “unicorn milk and fairy dust.” Of course, the chefs also used chile peppers. David Hollister of Dagwoods achieved double figures in that last category.
“My house blend has 18 different chiles and my spicy one has 21,” he said.
One ingredient had the potential to cause controversy as it filled bellies. Blaine Staniford of Grace Restaurant explained.
“When they put the newsletter out, it said to do beans at your own risk. I thought it was funny. But there’s no beans in Texas chili, period.”
The debate about whether beans belong in the recipe might be the true competition of the chili world. The debate inspires strong feelings on all sides. As I was writing this article, in fact, the song “Chilihead/No Beans” by Texan Tommy Alverson started playing on the radio. The chorus demands “don’t put no beans in your chili brew.”
Some competitors went ahead and used the legumes in question. Armenta, one of the bold ones, reported that 95% of his tasters liked what he served, beans or not.
The compound that would win the day, however, included, according to its creator, “a blend of Texas and Mexican cuisine” and a “blend of beef tri-tip and top round.” The ingredients, along with the all-important copper cooking pot, belonged to Juan Rodriguez.
The Magdalena’s chef/owner earned his triumph by a scant two votes over Terry Chandler of Fred’s Texas Café. In the spirit of the day, however, the runner-up didn’t mind.
“I’m not here competing with anybody. I’m just down here having fun with everybody in Fort Worth on a nice early spring day and just loving everybody, hanging out, making chili.”
Rodriguez also pointed out another of Sunday’s winners.
“It’s for a good cause as well,” he said.
The event benefited Cook Children’s Hospital, and in the end. the cause, plus fun and fellowship, likely played more of a role in drawing top chili makers than any competitive fire. Oh, and also just the fun of making chili, which is a sport in itself. After all, as Armenta said, “soup with meat is like a home run.”
