King of University

Rex’s Bar & Grill
1501 S University Dr, 817-207-4747. 11am-midnight daily.

Rex Benson’s family has a long history of restaurant ownership, but a number of things had to fall into place for his vision of an eponymous restaurant of his own to be realized.

Benson took over his family’s Ol’ South Pancake House around 2008. At that time, the Macaroni Grill shared a parking lot with the Fort Worth breakfast stalwart, which was fine –– the cuisines of Macaroni Grill (upscale fast-casual Italian-esque) and Ol’ South (hard to describe the category exactly) couldn’t have been more different. Flash forward five years to the post-COVID closure of Macaroni Grill, and Benson’s dream of an upscale sports bar walking distance from the family restaurant just became reality.

When we visited, server Ranita greeted all her tables with the enthusiasm definitely tailored toward the vibe she got. Want to sit and chat? She will. Want suggestions? On point. Want to order and be left alone? She can do that, too.

When pondering the excellent-looking appetizer choices, we were steered by her toward the wings. My joy at finding cherrywood-smoked chicken wings was tempered only by the fact that, while there are five sauce options, diners can choose only one. The spicy Korean barbecue was moderately spicy and a little sweet with a pungent hint of funk. Eight wings are ample to share as an appetizer, although if you take them home, you’ll get a much better hit of the smoke flavor the next day.

The Frog Smash on the signature cocktails menu sounded delicious. Vodka plus elderflower liqueur with blueberry puree and fresh lemon juice ought to have been a winner. The blueberry-lemon combo was made super-sweet by what my tastebuds thought was too much elderflower, which was more of a preference issue than an actual fault in the menu item.

The Caesar salad was a generous bowl of crisp romaine lettuce with impressive shavings of a good parm, all coated by an average dressing. Since we’d started with chicken, adding an additional protein to the salad didn’t feel necessary. The second main –– a New York strip –– was the perfect meat/potatoes combo. The restaurant’s “signature rub” was heavy on the salt, cracked black pepper, and maybe garlic. The steak came out perfectly cooked, served medium as requested, and was so soft and juicy that the cowboy butter on top was almost not needed. However, the mashed Yukon gold potatoes demanded a little extra treatment, so it all worked out. Grilled asparagus finished the plate.

On a whim, we ordered two more sides: gouda mac ’n’ cheese and mushroom hash. The delicately smoky flavor of the cheese sauce was delightful, and the thick, coiled cavatappi pasta proved the perfect foil to the cheesiness. The mushroom hash –– a mélange of baby bellas, shiitake, and other fungi I couldn’t identify — was a savory success. Blistered tomatoes provided a spectacular, sophisticated pop to the dish. It’s not disclaimed on the menu that the side is made with lardons –– order accordingly.

Banana pudding seemed imperative to cap the meal, and this grownup version was delicious, if not strictly traditional. It’s vanilla pudding with a kiss of caramel that took advantage of the sweet flavor of the extremely ripe bananas, fancied up with house-made whipped cream.

Rex’s outdoor patio only looks over University Drive (unfortunately not facing the Trinity, but then not much that far away faces the river). The whole place balances comfort with some effortless, simple elegance. Sure, there’s sports memorabilia (Ol’ South is legendary for hosting post-high school prom meals and TCU alumni gatherings) and a neon-tinged bar area. But the cool blues and tans of the seating space make Rex’s unrecognizable from its days as a chain restaurant, and it’s a place that seems to appeal equally to single dudes, couples, and, on the evening we dined, a family of eight in their rodeo best.

Over the last five or so years, it seems that a larger than average number of restaurants have come and died in Fort Worth. The reasons why have been the topic of endless debate in our foodie groups online and in person. I’ve maintained that while most of us with the budget to dine out love to challenge our palates episodically, what we want is simpler. Give us a protein and a couple of sides with a price point around $30 for a meal in a space that has an ample parking lot, and we’ll come back every time. Rex’s fits that bill perfectly.

Rex’s Bar & Grill
New York strip $39
Smoked chicken wings $15
Gouda mac ’n’ cheese $10
Roasted mushroom hash $8
Frog Smash $12
Caesar salad $14
Banana pudding $10