Georges Bank scallops get the royal treatment at the Chumley House with raisin sauce and a cauliflower puree.
Photo by Laurie James.
The Chumley House, 3230 Camp Bowie Blvd, Ste 250, Fort Worth. 469-960-6541. 4:30-9:30pm Sun-Thu, 4:30-10:30pm Fri-Sat.
Adjacent to the Crescent Hotel in the Cultural District, the Chumley House has a lot of competition in terms of other really good restaurants. One might say it takes a certain level of bollocks to put a steakhouse in Cowtown, especially one that leans heavily on the cuisine of a declining empire. British food, at least in the waning days of the 1900s, has a terrible rep. But from India to Hong Kong to North Africa, Brits have borrowed or stolen a lot of recipes, spices, and traditions.
Much like at Disneyland, the staff at the Chumley House have achieved a level of joyful acceptance that’s actually impressive — and I mean that in the best way possible. They are not required to speak in British accents, of course, but the level of service is high, even accepting that this is a white tablecloth restaurant. While waiting for my dining companions, I sat at the bar and watched an absolute symphony of grace among four bartenders working in cheerful harmony making some fairly complex drinks. Even a plain vodka-soda got a fancy lemon rind rub on the rim of the glass. The Bond Vesper (vodka, gin, and a hint of citrus from the fancy floral-orange Lillet) benefited from the subtle kiss of the matching citrus rim. When we were shown to our table, server Joel brought expertise and exceptional cheerfulness. He shepherded my table of three through the menu without being overweeningly cheerful or bossy.
Your dinner service at the Chumley House starts with savory scones accompanied by cultured butter (a tart, almost yogurt-like flavor) and a cup of floral tea. The presentation is excellent. As an amuse-bouche, the scones were absolutely delightful with the acerbic butter. The tea was lukewarm, which happens when you try to keep a beverage heated in an unlined little china pot, but no matter. It was a courtly gesture.
We started with the saag paneer, which wasn’t technically on the appetizer menu. A classic comfort dish of spinach simmered with robust Indian spices and decorated with chunks of mild paneer cheese, Chumley’s saag also featured crispy chickpeas that added a nice textural element. Is it the most authentic saag paneer in town? Maybe, maybe not, but it was a great, relatively healthy starter.
The artichoke-and-onion dip certainly isn’t strictly British, although the addition of salty malt vinegar chips made for a pretty addictive combo.
The butter-chicken pie was a combination of two of the most superb tastes ever: Indian butter-chicken and flaky pie crust. The bird’s warmly spicy, slightly tangy gravy was magnificently augmented by the tasty pastry wrapping. Because the dish is basically chicken in a creamy tomato sauce with no other veggies, the ginger yogurt-glazed root veggies accompanying the plate provided a savory, flavorful counterbalance and a nice added texture.
Long-bone lamb shanks came impressively presented bone out for grabbing — the presentation made it easier to share among our table of three. Apparently, the chef recommends medium-rare doneness, but these came out really rare. Still, the soft, fragrant lamb was refreshingly not gamy. Accompanying steamed carrots with a spicy, earthy harissa-spiced sauce topped with yogurt complemented the lamb’s flavor.
A trio of large Georges Bank scallops in a fragrant sauce with golden raisins, plus a cauliflower puree and a little frisée lettuce, completed the mains for us. The sweetness of the raisins paired perfectly with the lusciously creamy scallops, which were seared perfectly on top. The puree was the perfect canvas for the flavors of sweet and savory to mingle.
We also indulged in the tallow popovers, thinking we might want a little more substance with our meal. All the mains came with a vegetable, which rendered extra bread unnecessary. Not as impressive as Yorkshire puddings, the popovers were fine, but I wouldn’t spend calories on them.
Instead, throw diets to the wind and order dessert. The sticky toffee pudding might have been the most traditionally British thing on the menu, and the stout, rum-infused caramel sauce was exceptional. The pudding itself was a moist, fruity sponge, which, in terms of texture, some of us loved and some of us didn’t. Overall, the sweet cake, biting caramel, and vanilla gelato made for a nice combo.
As for the name: Chumley’s was apparently a historic pub, speakeasy, and socialist haven in 1920s Greenwich Village. Slang terms vary: “Chumley” could perhaps mean an informal gathering of friends, or, if you subscribe to Urban Dictionary, it’s the doofus guy you’re not successful at shaking off. Dallas-based Duro Hospitality brings a lot of talent to the Chumley House, and although the competition for your dinner dollars is fierce in the Cultural District, it’s worth a stop.
The Chumley House
Long-bone lamb tandoori $79
Georges Bank scallops $59
Butter-chicken pie $36
Tallow popovers w/cultured butter $13
Saag paneer $13
Artichoke and caramelized onion dip $16
Sticky toffee pudding $14
Bond Vesper $17
Start your meal at the Chumley House with an amuse-bouche of savory scones and cultured butter. Photo by Laurie James.The Chumley House’s butter-chicken pie combined two of the best tastes: Indian butter-chicken and a glorious flaky pastry. Photo by Laurie James.Saag Paneer with some crispy chickpeas are a fantastic starter (even if they’re on the sides menu). Photo by Laurie James.The Chumley House’s tandoori lamb with carrots in a harissa yogurt sauce was perfectly shareable. Photo by Laurie James.
