Rocky Island

Tia’s on the Bluff, 1301 E Bluff St, FW. 817-420-9000. 11am-9pm Sun, 5pm-11pm Thu-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat.

As I approached the wrought-iron gates surrounding Tia’s on the Bluff, I held my breath that maybe this time the knob would fully (finally, blessedly) turn. Rolling my eyes at my mental run-through of the entire number “Maybe This Time” from Cabaret, I grasped the knob and … an unyielding clank followed. On my third attempt in three days to eat here, I threw my head back in exasperation. Time to find yet another nearby alternative to stay the rumbles in my tum.

For a not-quite-fully-reformed people-pleaser like me, telling the unadulterated truth (especially when it sucks) can be difficult. Will people disagree? Probably. Will they be angry? Assuredly. Will it cripple my ego? Temporarily. Should I tell the truth, knowing I might get dragged online? Well, shit, here goes nothin’.

The truth is I wanted to like Tia’s. I’m rooting for this family-owned and -operated Tex-Mex restaurant. After all, authentic cuisine can be found in even the most unusual places: food trucks, holes in the wall, ghost kitchens … your mom’s house. *smirk emoji*

If what I’ve seen online is true, the local community is rooting for Tia’s, too. With that, however, is some confusion and frustration around the hours of operation. Maybe that’s par for the course with a small, family-run business — especially one that’s off the beaten path and has just reopened after a year-long hiatus. With the restaurant labor shortage in North Texas, it’s understandable.

Even so, I dropped by on four separate occasions during their posted open hours before I caught it open. I discovered later that my third attempt was foiled due to a shortage of available staff. The first two closures were due to an incorrect posting on their Instagram account with expanded lunch hours.

As it turns out, the fourth time is actually the charm. I nearly kissed the ground at the sight of the wide-open gate when my friends and I arrived one sunny afternoon.
If not for its bright blue and red chairs and umbrellas dotting the patio that enwraps the place, the beige brick-and-stone building would blend into the scenery. Those pops of color, along with the illustration of the logo on the fence, bring a vibrance to the earth-toned exterior.

The intriguing history of the place and its owners alone drew me in and sent me on a journey of the wild interwebs. The Sotelos’ century-old family home is situated in the once-vibrant Rock Island neighborhood. Now fractured by freeways and freight lines, it’s where the family’s roots run deep in a twisty and complicated past. In the mid-2010s, the spot was transformed into the restaurant and cantina it is today. Mary Sotelo and her loved ones, blood and otherwise, have been serving homestyle Mexican fare there ever since — until last summer when they shut their doors for renovations.

It’s clear Tia’s is struggling, perhaps still working out some kinks post-reopening. Even our sweet waitress apologetically explained that she was filling in for someone else as she handed us two different versions of the menu and said the bar wasn’t full-service that day. Despite these hiccups, the service was good, and the waitress was attentive and kind.

Our group started with Modelos and chips with creamy queso blanco and spicy salsa. (This gringa says be a little skeptical of the spice level.) Given the hot October afternoon, I opted for a refreshing, overly sweet house marg on the rocks and something light under “Tia’s Favorites.” The grilled fish tacos on corn tortillas topped with cilantro, diced tomatoes, and cheese with a side of guac mostly did the trick. The seasoning was hit or miss, but the fish was fresh with a lightly crispy outside.

There’s nothing like the sizzle of a cast-iron skillet filled with fajita meat and veggies emerging from the kitchen. My friend’s order of the beef version featured tender meat that was well-cooked if a little bland, atop grilled onions and peppers. Another who ordered the beef enchiladas said that, while flavorful, the savory red sauce smothering them was heavy and greasy. The 2-year-old at our table might have been the only one whose meal warranted no notes. His chicken enchiladas were crunchy and golden on the outside and cheesy within.

I’m not here to yuck anyone’s yum. For my crew, Tia’s was neither terrible nor great. Our lunch that day was a thoroughly average dining experience with a few highlights and a few moments of “meh.” As someone who’s eaten Mexican food in Rome (not a brag), trust me when I say it could have been much worse.

With staff shortages and unannounced closures, Tia’s has a few things to hash out, and I suspect their grand opening came a bit prematurely. In time, I hope Tia’s makes a real comeback and proves me wrong.

Tia’s on the Bluff
Queso blanco (large) $10.95
Fish tacos plate $14.95
Skillet fajita plate $19.95
Beef enchiladas $16.95
House margarita $7