Redeeming Value

Fort Redemption, 5724 Locke Av, Fort Worth. 11am-9pm Mon-Thu, open-10pm Fri-Sat, 10:30am-9pm Sat-Sun.

When Chef Tony Chaudhry opened his formidable food truck five years ago, he specialized in barbecue and burgers. An industry veteran of fine-dining establishments, he seemingly followed the blueprints that so many others have by waning off upscale cuisine and waxing on a more approachable and mobile Texas-centric menu. And just like so many others before him, he permanently parked his truck, switching mobility for a physical address. This move also saw his smoked meat offerings retreat, making way for a return of higher-end fare.

Fort Redemption opened toward the end of last year in what was most recently Mariachi’s Dine-In on Locke Avenue. The design is a stark contrast from the Mexican décor, with hints of current restaurant interior trends popping up though falling a bit short.

Guests are greeted by a host stand separating a painted lilac wall and exposed brick wall. The brightly lit main dining area of various accents of purple mixed within floral wallpaper blends with bare charcoal walls that dominate the shared space of the bar area.

The track lighting made it a bit uncomfortable for an intimate dining experience if that is your goal. Another ambient note was that the music was barely audible before completely vanishing, leaving guests exposed to one another’s conversations. The kitchen lacked a door, offering visibility from the dining area that allowed more excess light and noise to encroach upon our dining experience. Further, bright lighting from the parking lot lamps poured into the restaurant, which prompted me to get up and lower the shades to shield our eyes. Guests from across the dining room took notice of my action, and I felt like a hero to many.

Service was mostly steady, and our cocktails consisted of well-balanced Old Fashioneds, Cosmos, and Moscow Mules.

Chaudhry’s menu is tiny but mighty. While pre-dinner bread or similar offerings are not a prerequisite, and we are certainly not entitled to them, for the prices, this would’ve been a nice lagniappe. But it didn’t put a damper on what we consumed, and the only deficiency was that at 7 p.m. on a Friday night, only one seabass special was available. Luckily, a salmon dish on the menu made for an easy pivot.

Appetizers are limited to a mixed green salad, shishito peppers, and a charcuterie board. We opted for the peppers, which came across minimalist but very flavorful.

The rest of the menu reads masculine. Meat and meat and meat. Equally simple are the sides, items that tend to wind up on the Thanksgiving table, but there is nothing wrong with simplicity. Especially when mastered as well as Chaudhry has mastered them here.

We ordered a medium-rare tenderloin, grilled lamb chops, a hamburger, and the salmon. Mashed potatoes do come with each plate, but if there is a need for additional sides for sharing, each is $6 à la carte.

Seasoned with a pristine balance of salt and pepper, the 8-ounce tenderloin was grilled to perfection, maintaining juices without mooing, while the lamb chops were grilled with an excellent char alongside a slightly smoky flavor that kept the gaminess at bay.

In rebellion of the current smashburger trend, Fort Redemption’s patty clocked in at a half-pound of sheer beefy goodness, and since this dish is the only one for which guests can choose a side, we went with potato au gratin, which closely resembled a crusty peach cobbler in appearance.

The salmon was served along with asparagus rather than the potato mash, but for the health-conscious individual, they were well-buttered and cooked to a clean snap instead of overdone and limp.

Satisfied though not stuffed, after learning the desserts are all made in-house, we opted to try all three: banana pudding, tiramisu, and crème brûlée. And we had not one complaint about any of them.

While the dinner menu is straight to the point without frills, the lunch menu is a bit more adventurous and a return to the days of barbecue: brisket-jalapeno mac ’n’ cheese, a brisket sandwich, or just a half-pound of brisket. Followed by ahi tuna on greens and chicken enchiladas. And on the brunch menu, one can locate that same brisket, this time smothering waffles.

Considering Chaudhry’s culinary background, his journey from food truck to brick-and-mortar is a form of redemption, and, sometimes, we all just need a second chance.

Fort Redemption
Rack of lamb $36
8 oz beef tenderloin $35
8 oz grilled salmon $28
Redemption Burger $18
Shishito peppers $10
Tiramisu $7
Crème brûlée $7
Banana pudding $6