Chef Rosario Ortega is a native of Monterrey, Mexico, and, according to her new restaurant’s website, is lovingly known as “the original Cabrona” –– a term that I believe implies a woman of valor and strength and maybe not the colloquial “bitch.” La Cabrona occupies the space that formerly housed Tillman’s Roadhouse, back when the main purpose of Artisan Circle (formerly Crockett Row, formerly West 7th) was to dazzle most of us with delightful culinary options. Ortega also happens to be married to one of the area’s favorite restaurateurs. Adam Shanaa’s beloved Terra Mediterranean, which closed circa 2020, is back in Artisan Circle, not too far from La Cabrona.
But Ortega’s food stands on its own. House-made tortilla chips came out alongside a spicy-citrusy pureed salsa served in a molcajete, plus a tiny caldron of smooth, tasty refried beans topped with a little pork in a fiery sauce. That’s pretty much all the appetizer you’re going to need, although my dining companion and I sampled the elotes as well. The version here is plain (not grilled) baby corn in a thin crema sauce with a healthy dose of red-orange spice on top. Without the caramelized grilled flavor, the elotes weren’t the worst but definitely not what we had pictured.
A cup of tortilla soup was a luscious, well-simmered blend of seasonal veggies, black beans, and a good amount of chicken. A healthy dose of melty cheese, avocado, and ample tortilla shreds topped the cup to overflowing. I am not saying this tortilla soup will cure the flu or RSV, but if you start feeling under the weather, Ortega’s delicacy might help.
La Cabrona’s loaded tortilla soup might cure what ails you. Photo by Laurie James.
Mole is a time-consuming sauce. It can take days to cook and marinate, and depending on how detailed your abuela was, it could take dozens of ingredients. Everyone’s family’s recipe is a little different, but the main components are bittersweet chocolate and a good amount of earthy, smoky spices. The mole Norteno at La Cabrona is a rich, savory, velvety blanket of goodness over a dark-meat quarter chicken. First, the leg and thigh were cooked perfectly — no red bone to scare you. And the mole is on the spicy side, but it’s well-balanced and complex and served with house-made corn tortillas. A word about the tortillas –– they’re super-pretty, half plain corn and half colored, so they’re almost pink, and they’re tasty. Enjoy the sauce warm, as it’s meant to be eaten, but if you have a little to take home, savor a spoon cold before you reheat it: The flavors bloomed beautifully the next day.
I had no problem paying $20 for the mole entrée –– someone spent time on that sauce. The shrimp tacos were also priced at $20, and there was some sticker shock. That dissipated as soon as my dining companion’s plate of three giant soft tacos appeared in front of him. The handhelds hit all the tastebuds with a generous amount of plump, flavorful grilled shrimp, crunchy cabbage, pico, and a creamy green crema sauce. The plate was rounded out with ranchero beans and some of the best Mexican rice I’ve ever had.
La Cabrona is more Mex than Tex-Mex, which is only important to note if you aren’t expecting the well-seasoned, heavily spiced cuisine of Monterrey. The inside of the building is predominantly pink — extra pink now with the Christmas tree and décor. The murals on two walls are gorgeous, and there’s a little private dining area that feels special and secluded if you want to be a little apart from the bar. Parking in Artisan Circle is still a challenge since the garages are now equipped with a machine that requires some data entry — your license plate info will be logged, and all the merchants, including La Cabrona, have a QR code to validate parking. Street parking courtesy of the City of Fort Worth is free for the first two hours. But don’t let the parking chaos scare you. Two hours at La Cabrona is totally worth it.
La Cabrona Cochina Mexicana
Mole Norteno $20
Shrimp tacos $20
Chicken tortilla soup $10
Elotes $8
The plump, zesty shrimp tacos are well worth the large price tag at La Cabrona.Good mole is hard to come by, and La Cabrona’s hits all the right notes. Photo by Laurie James.The perfect appetizer is free at La Cabrona — a thick, citrusy salsa with house-made chips and refried beans with pork in a simmered stew.La Cabrona is delightfully festive all year round but especially now.
