Cafe Americana, 403 E Main St, Arlington. 682-338-3033. 11am-11pm Tue-Sun, 11am-1am Fri-Sat.
When Chef Mark Vincent Guatelara closed Ober Here, it was another disheartening loss for those who yearn for unique ethnic cuisine. From what began as a food truck in the same parking lot serving Filipino rice bowls, he transitioned to a food stall as popularity justified the need for more space. With heaping portions of barbecue pork, honey shrimp, or homemade Spam, it was one of the only late-night food options for the Near Southside at a reasonable cost.
Tasteful in both design and menu, Cafe Americana brings food and aesthetics together nicely. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERY
That closure didn’t allow him to give up on his aspirations. Leaning on his years of fine dining, he broadened his culinary horizons by not starting over from scratch but starting over from experience. In a metal-fabricated building in Arlington’s burgeoning downtown, Cafe Americana was born. Painted charcoal-gray with a gaudy neon sign of tropical accents announcing its location, this is a minor introduction for what’s inside.
Vibrant jungle-green paint consuming the interior walls along with lush greenery and a hodgepodge of pictures in gallery format, this oasis is a complete 180 from what fans of Ober Here may have been accustomed to. And there is no shortage of visual eye candy for guests.
Somewhat dated in design but safe, the woodgrain bar faces a white-tiled wall with a massive poster depicting a cowboy trying to make eight seconds on a bucking horse alongside the slogan “Meet Me at Americana.” And that’s where the cowboy culture ends. With a three-bay garage window setup, the natural light works well until sundown, when the restaurant lighting becomes a bit intrusive, removing any attempt at cozy dining. The music is on point as a playlist shuffles between cumbia and rumba to funk and soul — fitting for a menu consisting of Spanish-style tapas with nods to the cuisines of the Caribbean, Peru, and Portugal.
Fresh off a trip to Key West, where the mojitos are as exemplary as those I plunged into in Havana, I opted for Cafe Americana’s Mojito Tropical. Prepared with white rum, lime juice, and brown sugar, then garnished with watermelon and mint, it was a bit lighter than expected. Lola’s Paloma with charred pineapple, coconut, and lime or La Rubia Sangria with red wine, fruit, and wooden spices would’ve resonated better.
Although large plates are available, we chose to explore the smaller options to allow a more robust experience of the menu, so we kicked off our subtropical jaunt with an order of Peruvian chicken skewers and Spanish-style mussels. The chicken was evenly grilled without dryness or burnt edges, with red chimichurri layered over a bed of peppery, tart arugula and grapefruit salad. With a bright, tangy-yet-sweet roasted garlic flavor, the red chimichurri was new to me and a welcome alternative to the more popular green version.
Sound the alarm. Cafe Americana’s chicken skewers are fire. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERY
The broth of the mussels was incredible, and depending upon what was captured within a shell — garlicky, diced cilantro leaf or chorizo — each slurp of the bivalve dish offered a different flavor profile. Mopping it up with grilled bread, the broth didn’t stand a chance.
Next up was the crispy pork. Covered with syrupy-sweet Spanish sambal-honey sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds and cilantro, the addictive plate caused me to contemplate continuing its consumption later before throwing in the towel now or carrying on like a champion. I chose the latter. If there were an option for a bowl of rice as a side, this pairing would’ve been reminiscent of Gautelara’s beloved Ober Here.
With stomach space shrinking, our final selections were the Portuguese octopus, the jerk-chicken empanadas, and the beet-and-citrus salad. The octopus came intact, with black and green olives along with baby potatoes. The charred tentacles sang a seaworthy tune, and the alternating olives kept it fresh, especially when scooped along a slice of soft, buttery spud.
The author couldn’t fathom the flavorful charred tentacles. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERY
The delicious flaky crust of the empanadas dissolved with ease but overwhelmed the typically pronounced jerk spices, rendering the chicken all but lost within, but we would certainly give it another try, especially when dipped in the cilantro-and-mint sauce.
The finale of the salad was almost sweet enough without falling within the dessert category. The rootsy beets and burst of orange swirled in melted goat cheese and cool cucumber dressing were absolutely dazzling.
Chef Guatelara’s aim to honor the pioneering spirit of America with a worldly concept is far from exaggerated imitation. It’s a true celebration of our country’s culinary roots planted in our backyard.
The Tropical Mojito is one of many beach-worthy beverages at Cafe Americana. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERYThese mussels carried the meal on their backs. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERYCafe Americana’s crispy pork haunts the author the way Ober Here does. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERYBeets so good, Dr. Dre would be jealous. PHOTO BY CODY NEATHERYPHOTO BY CODY NEATHERY
