Smoky and juicy, Buena Vida’s barbacoa elevated this taco to extraordinary levels of sublimity.
Photo by Edward Brown.
Buena Vida Taqueria, 314 S Main St, Ste 120, FW. 817-386-5334. 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, 11am-2am Fri-Sat.
Buena Vida Taqueria exudes tropical feels, which may explain why venturing out on a chilly wintry evening — even with the promise of warm, meat-packed tacos — felt a bit incongruous with the South Main space’s summery vibes. Bright neon pink washed over the single dining room filled with long tables and several smaller four-tops. A single bar with two margarita machines, tequila- and mezcal-heavy liquor bottles, and four macrobrews on tap stand ready to top off diners’ drinks. And there’s the merch.
“I’m a slut for tacos,” reads one T-shirt near the register, “A taco-ho, if you will.”
The venture by Chef Alex Lines (who heads several restaurants across North Texas, including West 7th’s Pour Decisions) leans heavily on tacos with a smattering of creative Latin entrees, appetizers, and cocktails.
Served in a hefty glass tumbler with a green straw, the mojito was a light and refreshing spritzer. The cocktail was heavy on the mint, and the herbal flavors washed over my palate with alternating waves of lime, rum, and a light sugariness. All the flavors worked in harmony, perfectly blending acidity and sweetness while keeping the texture light and far from cloying.
One of several street tacos, the barbacoa came on a lightly toasted flour tortilla and was immaculately prepared with bits of bright red and white slices of radish, a dash of Cotija, and a light sprinkling of cilantro. The large strands of meat tinged with chipotle powder were smoky and pungent. Several mild, plump shrimp arrived perfectly grilled and lightly doused in lime juice on the second taco that had the same toppings as the barbacoa version.
The birria pizza, a thin but dense and flavor-packed entree, could easily feed two. Hefty chunks of tender beef, gooey white cheese, and drizzles of a spicy red sauce, plus diced onions, cilantro, and a white cream sauce covered two large, toasted tortillas. An accompanying side of decadent and spicy consommé for dunking rounded out the savory and mouthwatering experience.
Part pizza, part birria taco, Buena Vida’s culinary hybrid is packed with rich chipotle flavors. Photo by Edward Brown.
Served with tortillas for taco-making at your table, a single large slab of short ribs that the menu said had been slow-cooked for 72 hours harmonized with a hillock of vinegary slaw and pickled red onions. The meat that slipped off the bone made for a juicy and slightly fatty centerpiece, and it was so savory that the tortillas went unnoticed. No mere afterthought, the side of beans perfectly cooked to a firm texture burst with the flavors of bacon, onion, and chorizo.
Fort Worth boasts an abundance of great taco options, from trendy Austin-inspired spots to traditional Mex-Mex joints, but South Main Village just has Tinies — as great as it is, it’s certainly no humble taqueria. Buena Vida, with creative offerings and elevated, immaculately plated fare, is an original and welcome addition to the scene, especially if you’re a taco-ho. And who isn’t.
Buena Vida Taqueria
Short rib tacos $23.99
Shrimp taco $3.99
Barbacoa taco $3.75
Birria pizza $18.99
Mojito $10
Buena Vida’s fork-tender rib meat was too perfect to not greedily savor alone. Photo by Edward Brown.If plump, juicy shrimp are your thing, Buena Vida’s seafood-laden taco won’t disappoint. Photo by Edward Brown.Buena Vida’s mint-forward mojito was pleasantly light and not too syrupy. Photo by Edward Brown.
