Kream of Cowtown

A dessert row has formed on South Main Street with the addition of a unique, savory, sweet spot. Dusty Biscuit Beignets moved from its former pop-up Airstream into its new brick-and-mortar store in November, neighboring Morgan’s Ice Cream and Emporium Pies.

Walking through the doors, I was greeted by the sweet aroma of freshly baked bread and the soft sound of upbeat jazz. I noticed the fleur-de-lis symbol incorporated beneath the bar top counter, furthering the restaurant’s Louisiana theme. Though the establishment is small, it includes enough tables for a light crowd of roughly a dozen.

Reading over the hanging soft-opening menu on the wall, the description of the Dusty Cristo Sliders first caught my attention due to the inclusion of a side of strawberry-jalapeno jam. The maple-glazed beignet was split in half, with hot slices of ham and turkey sandwiched between. A thick piece of Swiss cheese melted within the thin layers of meat. Small chunks of fresh bacon pieces stuck to the maple glaze on the surface of the pastry. Each bite contained just a touch of sweetness from the powdered sugar sprinkled on top. The highlight of this beignet was, distinctively, the strawberry-jalapeno jam. The smoky, sweet, and spicy pairing amplified the taste of the otherwise traditional slider ingredients.

I could smell the meat in my sausage-and-biscuit sliders before even putting it near my mouth. The thin patties were tender, and I could tell they were well-cooked by their medium-to-light shade of brown. The folded meat slid between the split beignet, ready to be enjoyed as a breakfast treat. Though the creation wasn’t dry, it craved gravy or syrup for ultimate satisfaction.

To continue the experience, I chose the Sweet Trio, which includes three sweet beignets. Keeping with the shop’s Louisiana touch, I also selected the classic deep-fried French Quarter Beignet. My 2013 memory of eating my first French Quarter masterpiece is one that has not faded. I suspected Dusty’s would have a difficult time competing with my New Orleans original, but after one bite, I was proven wrong. When I held my pastry, my fingers made indentions in the soft, warm dough. Though there was a blanket of powdered sugar on top, my fingertips never removed enough powder for the bread to show through. After finishing the fritter, it was worth my time to lick my coated white fingertips. No napkin necessary.

The Bourbon Street Beignet was drizzled in a thick maple glaze, then dusted with fresh praline pecans and chopped bacon. The maple flavoring couldn’t have paired more perfectly with the meaty chunks of bacon bits. Though sweeter than the French Quarter Beignet, it would soon be beat.

I saved the sweetest, and most colorful, for last. The hot, soft Cowtown King Cake was glazed in cream cheese, cinnamon sugar, and red-and blue-colored sugar. My tastebuds were delighted to celebrate Mardi Gras out of season.

As a side, I added Dusty’s Bayou Bacon Tots. The potatoes were lightly crispy, seasoned with a creole remoulade, and sprinkled with chopped green onion and bacon bits. I tasted a bit of Buffalo sauce in the creole remoulade, which gave the tots a spicy kick.

Dusty Biscuit Beignets has recently widened its menu to include weekly specials, such as Dusty Pebbles, Bacon JalaCheeto, and cookies-and-cream beignets. The kitchen will continue to expand its menu as Dusty’s presence progresses to provide an unparalleled experience for those unique cravings you didn’t even know you had.