After my first attempt to dine at Jumra Kabab was derailed by a gas line issue, I skulked and sulked hungrily away, annoyed that I would have to make a return visit all the way out to North Arlington to review a kabab shop. Since eating there, however, I have found myself furtively plotting my routes about town to bring me ever closer to the intersection of Highway 360 and Green Oaks Road. The place has an easygoing authenticity that stays with you after you leave, and the fresh flavors coming out of the kitchen demanded a return visit.
A staffer told me the eatery usually does a brisk business at lunch, but I had the place to myself when I settled in on a recent weekday night. An unseasonably cool summer’s evening had prompted the host to prop open the front door, and a breeze tangled with smoke from the brochette. The dining room is clean and bright with plenty of windows. From my table I had a view to the open grill and kitchen, clad in polished stainless steel and framed by slabs of orange, red, and green.
[box_info]Jumra Kabab, 2500 NE Green Oaks Blvd, Ste 100, Arl. 817-649-5000. 12am-10pm Sun.11am-10pm Mon-Sat. All major credit cards accepted.[/box_info]
As I was still reading through the menu, Turkish coffee arrived in a copper cezve, along with an espresso cup and a friendly warning from my host that the little pot would keep me up all night if I drank it all. (I did, and he was right.) The thick brew of finely ground beans simmering with cardamom and sugar signaled an auspicious start to a meal that would exceed my expectations.
A “small” serving of fatoush salad could have almost served as a main course. Chunks of cucumber, green bell pepper, and ripe tomatoes were tossed with lemon juice and olive oil. Crowning the dish were golden chips of fried pita bread and a dusting of crimson sumac, a tart Levantine spice with an unmistakable floral flavor.
My host suggested the kufta kabab as something of a house specialty. The long tubes of minced meat flavored with spices and onions had been formed along metal skewers like caseless sausages and then grilled over an open flame until charred. The meat arrived medium-well, the caramel crust locking in fragrant juices spiced with garlic and cinnamon. Served alongside were marinated red onions, a bright pink cabbage slaw, and thin sticks of pickled cucumbers. These were stuffed into tears of toasted pita bread and dipped into the kitchen’s tangy tahini, a sauce of ground sesame seeds cut with lemon juice. Each morsel was more delicious than the last.
The skewers of chicken thigh were served with the same accompaniments and were every bit as good in their own right. Black on the edges but cooked perfectly through the center, the bird had a beautiful chargrilled smokiness that wasn’t masked with too much lemon or garlic.
The kitchen offers a basic falafel sandwich for the bargain price of only $3.99, but for only two dollars more I upgraded to the Jumra Falafel. The thing is massive, and my best hope of describing it is to say it’s like a gigantic Middle Eastern veggie burrito. An enormous pita was wrapped around disks of crunchy falafel — and the kitchen’s falafel on its own was excellent — and layered with the creamy house hummus and tahini sauce. Above that were piles of fried cauliflower, fried eggplant, and French fries. To be fair, the fried veggies aren’t breaded or battered. Still, this sandwich is a caloric heavyweight. Each individual ingredient is cooked perfectly, so it’s worth a cheat-day splurge — especially if you eat it over several sittings.
I didn’t really need a piece of baklava after a meal like this, but the crispy flakes of phyllo pastry sandwiching a layer of honeyed walnuts was just the right taste, and just the right size, to cap it off.
Food from this part of the world, when served in our part of the world, is sometimes adulterated to suit our perceived lack of taste. It isn’t uncommon to find kabab shops slipping toward food-court travesties, like thick, spongy “pita” bread and tzatziki sauce that tastes suspiciously like ranch dressing. Jumra Kabab doesn’t seem to be interested in condescending to its clientele, thankfully. Genuine hospitality and great food will take it a long way.
[box_info]Jumra Kabab
Fatoush salad (small) $4.49
Kufta kabab $13.99
Chicken thigh kabab $13.99
Jumra falafel sandwich $5.99[/box_info]
