Regional variations of Mediterranean cooking produce a seemingly endless variety of slightly different spins on basic staple ingredients –– chickpeas, eggplant, sharp white cheese, and a variety of meats (usually not including pork). Arlington’s Andalous Mediterranean Grill, owned by twins Sam and Wassim Wached, has the added bonus of allowing people to see what they’re ordering before committing to a meal.
The place looks like a fresh and healthy Lebanese Luby’s: Grab a tray and progress through the cafeteria line, starting with fresh homemade pita bread. The puffy house-made pita that comes with every entrée is absolutely fabulous –– slightly crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside. You can also pick up a basket of thin, crunchy pita chips, which are useful since the next station on the line is the dips. Don’t make the mistake I did. Entranced by the baba ganouj and four kinds of hummus right beyond the pita bread, I didn’t realize that there are more side options available 30 feet away.
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Andalous Mediterranean Grill
457 I-20 East, Ste 100, Arlington. 817-465-2100. 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri-Sat. All major credit cards accepted.
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As you move along, you’ll find salads, eggplant, falafel, okra, and fried cauliflower. The Andalous version of a halal “meat and three” includes kebabs (beef, chicken, or lamb), traditional gyro meat, lamb shanks, fish, and roast beef. All of the serving dishes are garnished beautifully with veggies shaped or carved to look like flowers. The menu board is helpful, however it’s acceptable, and probably wise, to walk the line first to see what your choices are before deciding.
The roast beef was cooked in a reddish-brown, cinnamon-heavy sauce similar to curry but without the sharp undertones of curry spices. The beef was tender as slow-cooked brisket but not as stringy. Coriander potatoes paired well as a side –– the woodsy flavor of the spice was surprisingly subtle, and the roasted potatoes had a perfect, slightly crunchy skin. The wilted spinach salad, served cold with a cranberry vinaigrette, ended up being a nice palate cleanser.
The lamb kebabs ordered as a second entrée came out deconstructed, which means without the grilling stick. This was actually pleasant. No diner loves wrestling her protein off a kebab rod. Five good-sized, thinly sliced pieces of lamb were plated with grilled onion and tomato. The lamb was easy to eat and not at all gamy, and the onion was soft and delicious. The warm tomato was OK but didn’t add much to the dish.
The house baba ganouj was smoky and flavorful, with a little chunky eggplant for texture. Unfortunately, the traditional hummus didn’t live up to its sister dip. The ground chickpeas were very plain, with no lemon or garlic flavor to speak of. The falafel salad came loaded with sour pickles, chopped tomatoes, and cold, thick, chewy falafel. The highly spiced chickpea patties might have been better served warm. The Greek salad was excruciatingly heavy on the balsamic vinegar. Even the abundant amount of sharp feta cheese and mixed greens couldn’t compensate.
From the sandwich side of the menu, the traditional gryo lamb/beef combo was carved off the spit to order, with the perfect amount of crispy edges and soft inner pieces. The burrito-like thin pita wrapping was also stuffed with sliced tomatoes, lettuce, and thin strips of pickles, all bathed in a chunky, cucumber-heavy tzatziki sauce.
Namura is meant to be a moist, dense bar/cookie, sort of like a lemon square but made with farina. Sadly, Andalous’ version, which came topped with coconut shreds, was dry and tasted as if it had been sitting in the display case for days.
The Wached brothers have pretty much done well by their culinary heritage. The dishes aren’t dumbed down for Texas palates, and the food goes beyond Greek salad and gyros. Andalous isn’t an all-you-can-eat buffet, but there’s more than enough food to stuff you like a dolma with one trip through the line.
[box_info]Andalous Mediterranean Grill
One meat, three sides $13.49
Gyro sandwich w/one side $8.99
Namura $1.89[/box_info]
