It’s a funny thing. I’ve lived in Fort Worth most of my life, was a chef/server for a decade, and I’ve been part-time food critic going on five years now. And still, every time someone asks me for a restaurant recommendation, I freeze. I get a lot of e-mails from people looking for a particular dish or style of cuisine. Somewhere in the murky chasms of my brain, the answers to their inquiries are hiding away like a skittish feral cat ducking an oncoming car.
I do have a regular rotation, eateries I fall back on when the food-choosing synapses just won’t fire. One of the places I frequent, Revolver Taco Lounge (2822 W. 7th St., 817-820-0122), gave me quite a scare last year when the owners announced on Facebook that they would be closing before January because of a landlord/property dispute. Luckily, the authentic haute Mexican eatery is still safe and snug in its cozy, chic West 7th-area spot.
Not only is the lounge still there, it’s now open for lunch. The concept, like most things at Revolver, is pretty unique. There’s a printed menu of breakfast and lunch fare such as the ribeye huarache ($8.50), a large baked masa boat filled with fried beans, ribeye, onion, and cilantro; and chilaquiles ($8), a pan–fried tortilla, scrambled eggs, melted asadero cheese, and a choice of green or red sauce.
The best reason to visit the place in the light of day is the guisados taco buffet ($12), an all-you-can-eat choice of four fillings, all of which are still stewing in pots as you walk by the open kitchen and spoon your own meats. An on-duty abuela hands you a freshly made corn tortilla –– those alone are worth the price of admission –– and there are chafing dishes full of the best beans and rice this side of Zacatecas.
Each of the taco fillings on my visit, I’m happy to report, was excellent. The eggs and chorizo was the perfect balance of spicy sausage and silken eggs. The mix of chicken, zucchini, squash, asadero cheese, and cream was reminiscent of a more elegant version of a classic Indian soup with similar ingredients. My favorite concoction was the pork nopales (cactus) with potatoes, which I could have eaten like a stew straight out of the pot. The ground beef and potatoes combo was a little more pedestrian by comparison but easily the most gringo friendly.
Of all the lovely dishes I sampled that day, the thing I’ve been craving the most is the Mexican-style coffee. The chocolate, cinnamon drink was sugary enough to stand in for dessert, and it packed enough of a caffeine wallop to keep me jittery for the rest of my day –– I had three cups. That sweet, sweet java comes free with the buffet.
If anyone asks me for a recommendation for an outstanding all-you-can-eat authentic, upscale Mexican lunch/breakfast, I won’t hesitate to tell him or her to head straight to Revolver –– unless of course I’m completely paralyzed by the question.
Contact Chow, Baby at chowbaby@fwweekly.com.
