It struck me as I walked into Vivo 53 (525 Taylor St., 855-216-2378) that this city has quietly built a small but solid stable of upscale pizza restaurants. Not too long ago, the only place you could get pizza outside of Domino’s was Mama’s, Perotti’s, or Parton’s Pizza. When Uno’s Pizzeria & Grill opened a location in downtown in 1992, it was really the first time in memory that people in the Fort could get fancier pie.
Now pizza lovers have a few more options, including Thirteen Pies (2949 Crockett St., 817-769-3590), Cane Rosso (815 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-922-9222), Taverna (450 Throckmorton St., 817-885-7502), Winslow’s Wine Café (4101 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-546-6843), and a few others.
Vivo 53 is the newest player in the city’s burgeoning artisan pizza game. It’s not exactly a crowded field, but the idea of fancy-in- the-pantsy pizza isn’t novel anymore. On a recent visit, the downtown pizzeria mostly hit the mark, though it lacked polish.
For example, when my guest and I ordered a bottle of the very reasonably priced Ruta 22 Malbec ($22), our server didn’t open the bottle at the table or allow me or my guest to taste it before she poured both glasses. That wasn’t a deal breaker, especially considering the price, but it instantly lowered my expectations of the place. The courses all came out rapidly, one on top of the other. We wanted a languid night on the town but felt a little rushed –– though I’m certain it was unintentional.
The food was a little hit and miss. The starter of fried Brussels sprouts ($5.50) with capers, almonds, and a creamy wine vinaigrette was barely edible. The sprouts were tiny and broken, like chips at the bottom of a bag, and overcooked beyond recognition. The capers made the dish cloyingly salty, and the vinaigrette added an acidic touch that bordered on culinary torture.
The bone marrow ($9.50), two Flintstones-sized bone halves filled with fatty, fois gras-like marrow, was almost ruined by the overly citrus-tasting salsa verde carelessly slathered on top. My guest and I tried to pick around it, but the sauce reduced what should have been the evening’s best dish to a mediocre offering.
The kitchen made a comeback with the Treviso salad ($7), a generous mix of the namesake red lettuce, little gem lettuce, hard grana padano Italian cheese, house-made croutons, and a dreamy anchovy vinaigrette that elevated the dish to rich, creamy heights.
The main course, burrata pizza ($14), was the highlight of our dinner. The thin crust was crispy on the bottom, and its edges ballooned out like an inflatable pool of gossamer-like bread. The toppings were a clinic in balance. The sweetness of the marinara, creaminess of the burrata cheese, saltiness of the prosciutto, and bitter rucola lettuce were all in perfect harmony. Every bite was a high feat of a textural engineering.
There will always be a special place in my heart for Perotti’s and Mama’s, but I’m glad our town finally has some options for classier pizza places. Vivo 53 may not be perfect, but it’s definitely a welcome addition to the fancy-pizza scene.
Contact Chow, Baby at chowbaby@fwweekly.com
