At first sight, Roscoe's Smokehouse in Burleson seemed to violate so many rules of Texas barbecue that I almost didn't go in. The lawn is well manicured, the building looks like it's never been condemned, and the sign outside still lights up. But since I had made the trip all the way from the Fort -- and since I'd heard that Roscoe's co-owners, Scott Noojin and Blair Pearce, have impressive 'cue pedigrees -- I made my way inside.